This is a companion document to the RyTheCarGuy video titled THE WIRING EPISODE (How to VK Swap Episode 13). The document is at the bottom of this article.
https://youtu.be/yOEtsjdqnqM
This document is for the 2006 Nissan Titan to 2006 Nissan Xterra Wire Mapping. This includes the harnesses that are located in IPDM enclosure of each vehicle and is broken down into three main sections..
General Information
This document does NOT cover the wiring of the starter or alternator. Please reference the video above to gain a full picture of my methodology and a much better understanding of this document. The pinouts and mapping can be found on different tabs at the bottom of the sheet. Here you can find which connectors are wired to which, the size of each connector, and the Nissan color guide.
DISCLAIMER: Use this document for reference only. verify all pinouts and connections for your vehicle model and year. RyTheCarGuy is not responsible for any damage incurred to your vehicle based on the information provided in this document.
Connector Pinouts
In this section there are three connectors from each vehicle listed out. E5, E2, and E19 for the Titan and F14, F32, and F33 for the Xterra. The corresponding connections are grouped vertically with the pin layout shown between them. For an example on the left of the sheet E5 and F14 are shown, those are (mostly) wired into each other and the pin layout of F14 is displayed between them. The pin layout is viewed from the terminal side, meaning the male side of the connection. The diagram is numbered as if you are looking into the open holes of the connector.
Connector Mappings
This section shows the mappings for each connector with the corresponding connector pin layout at the top of each mapping. The Xterra connectors are all listed numerically while the Titan pins are moved around to meet up with the corresponding wire on the Xterra side. The mappings are mirrored to display the most pertinent information aside from one another. To the right of each connection, you will find the left-over wires after each joining was complete. Some of these will be used in future steps of the project while others will be used or unused based on the features of each vehicle (IE, the water valve for the heater core on the titan does not exist on the Xterra so is unused. All wires were used on the F33 > E19 connectors. In the F32 > E2 mapping you will see that there are 3 pins that are highlighted in red. These are crossovers from other connectors. So pins 1,2,and 3 on F32 are actually connected to pins 6, 5, and 15 on E5, NOT E2.
Below is a no start condition guide for the Nissan Xterra. There are a couple very common issues with these vehicles, and I wanted to get a quick guide out there for people who have not delt with it before. This chart will grow with time and contributions from the Xterra community.
Below is a list of common Nissan codes and any corresponding Ry The Car Guy videos that attempt to address the issue. This is an active list and will be updated based on codes I address on my vehicles and create videos on.
Code
Description
Video
P1111
Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Bank 1
Hey guys, this is a companion article to the video recently posted on RTCG 2 about my new (to me) 2020 RAM 2500. I state in the video that I will post a readable version of my window sticker and post so specs. So here they are. Also, if you are somehow here without seeing the video. I have it posted below for you.
Hey guys, as promised I wanted to get this cost break down out to you so you can see exactly what I spent rebuilding my VK 56. Here is a quick guide/tips on using the spread sheet.
Not everything on this list is required – I bought some items I could have lived without and I brough items that you might think is a waste. Conversely, I may have bought items that I consider optional that you might consider required. I used Column H to mark items that I considered optional/required
I broke it out by phase – Phase 1 was engine removal, phase 2 was the rebuild, and phase 3 was engine reinstall and first start/break in.
I did not buy all of these items for the rebuild. I already had a lot of it. I used the “new to me” column to determine my cost. You can do the same. You can put a capital X in each row that’s new to you and see an estimated cost to the far right.
The far right side – Scroll to the right and you will see the cost break down by type of item (Tools, consumables, and parts) as well as a total cost.
This article is a supplemental document to the video listed below.
https://youtu.be/EgR8yRR5tm0
The below is in two sections first is an alphabetical list of all the torque specs I could find pertaining to the engine install. Second is a list of diagrams for the items that require a particular toque sequence. I recommend using the search function of your browser to quickly find what you are looking for. Reach out if I missed anything.
* All specs are in foot pounds unless otherwise noted.
Part
Torque (ft-lbs)
Air Conditioning Pump (cross pattern)
45
Alternator to lower bracket
16
Alternator to upper bracket
48
Cowl Mounts
51
Engine Mounting Bracket to Block
65
Exhaust Manifold
251
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shields
51 in-lbs
Front Cross Member
96
Front Drive Shafts (line up paint makers)
54
Front Final Drive (Differential)
135
Front Final Drive (Differential) Skid Plate
73 in-lbs
Front Propeller Shaft (Drive Shaft) (line up paint makers)
A long long time ago in a city far far away I made a box for a subwoofer that fit perfectly in my Xterra. I didn’t make a video on it because I was not at the point in my YT career that I was making a video on everything that I do to my Xterra. However, since I made it, I have gotten the occasional “how did you build that box?” comment in videos where you can see it. That led me to make a quick video describing how I did it (which can be found below). In order to make very clear how I accomplished this I also took measurements and drew out all the dimensions on a guide. Below you will see the image I created along with a link where you can download a printable PDF version.
This job had a lot of steps but as long you pay stick with it is really just a bolt on job. There is really not much to write up so below you will find the specs for the parts of the vehicle that are touched during this job. This page is broken up into two parts. The Titan/Armada/QX56 first, then below that the Xterra/Frontier specs. Scroll to the very bottom to quickly access the video. Thanks for stopping by!
To be honest this job was really straight forward. There is really not much to write up so below you will find the specs for the parts of the vechiles that are touched during this job. This page is broken up into two parts. The Titan/Armada/QX56 first, then below that the Xterra/Frontier specs. Scroll to the very bottom to quickly access the video. Thanks for stopping by!
As I stated in my video I wanted to get this post out as supplemental resource for anyone that is doing this job. It is meant to supplement the video and not replace it. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me.
This is just for the clutch portion of the job. If you want to see the post about removing the transmission please click here.
I will assume in this article that you want to replace everything that is reasonably accessible when removing the transmission. This would be the following items:
Rear main seal
Pilot bushing
Flywheel
Clutch
Clutch Cover
Throw-out/Release bearing
Lets start with the big stuff. Replacing the flywheel, clutch, and clutch cover is rather simple. You need to unbolt all the stuff and then bolt it back on. Really, its that easy. The only items to keep in mind are some of the tools you will need to do the job, the timed flywheel, and making damn sure to not get your clutch contaminated with grease/oil. As far as the tools are concerned you will of course need your standard array of automotive tools in addition to a few “specialty” or uncommon tools. First off you should pick up a flywheel turner. This allows you to hold the flywheel in place when taking off or installing bolts. Additionally you will need a TP55. This is a Torx Plus 55. IT IS DIFFERENT FORM A T55 AND YOU SHOULD NOT USE A T55. This will be used to remove and install the flywheel bolts. next are a three jaw puller and bearing presses to replace the release bearing. If you do not plan to use these a lot you rent these from auto parts stores. You can also find all these these tools on amazon using the links below (affiliate links). Lastly you need some sort of tool to install the rear main seal. The Nissan tool is like $120 so I went to the hardware store and got a 3″ PVC adapter and and cleanout drain cap to create my own press, 7 bucks total.
When re/installing the flywheel you need to be damn sure you are putting it on correctly. The crank position sensor uses the ring on the rear of the flywheel to see what position the crank is in (stupid, I know). However they do provide you a notch in the front of the flywheel that needs to be aligned with the dowel on the crank. See below.
The manual did not indicate a particular patter in which the bolts should be installed so I just went with a standard star patterns and dabbed the bolts with some Loctite to keep them nice and snug. torque those down to 65ft-lb (88N.m/9kg-m).
The clutch cover/Pressure plate is a different story. This needs to be bolted down in the correct pattern. I also bought new bolts (manual does not say to) for this part of the job since they are on the small side and have lock washers. When you are ready carefully insert the clutch using the clutch alignment tool (should come with your clutch kit). Align the dowels and press it on to hold it there. When you are ready tighten the bolts in two phases and in the following patterns.
Once you have those worked out you need to get the the rest of the vehicle put back together.
For the most part its as simple as bolting everything back up and driving off into the sunset. I will just go through some tips I learned as I went through the process.
Mounting the transmission
Right off the bat I want to say you should really have a second person for this. I tried like hell to get this thing to meet up on my own and I could not do it. Once I had a second person I had the thing slide in place in under 5 minutes. You need to have someone on the back of the jack controlling the height of the rear of the transmission. This allows you to be up front guiding the input shaft through the clutch and tell the person in the rear to go up or down to line it all up. Once you get it to meet up with the engine torque the mount bolts down to 55ft-lb. There are 10 in total.
Refilling the transmission
Once you get the transmission mounted back up you will need to refill it with fluid. You cannot throw any old tranny fluid in there. You need have a specific fluid. Below is what the Manual says you will need:
Genuine Nissan MTF (manual transmission fluid) HQ multi 75w-85 or API GL-4, viscosity of SAE 75w-85 or 75w-90
2WD will take 4 and 1/4 quarts and 4WD will take 4 and 3/8 quarts. Tighten the fill and drain plugs down to 25ft-lb
Exhaust install
Nothing really to say here, just line up the studs on both sides of the exhaust pipes and tighten them to spec. You should replace any gaskets that you remove. Dont forget to plug your O2 sensors back in and install both sides loosely before tightening it all down. Once you get the exhaust put back together make sure that you dont over torque the heat shield bolts. They go down to only 51 in-lbs.
Installing the rear cross member
Just getting this out what a huge pain. When you are reinstalling it make sure you clean the surface of the cross member that slides into the frame mount as well as clean the surface of the mounts themselves. I used a scour pad to take off any flake rust and smooth it over as well as I can. I also used chassis lube to make inserting it a little easier. I put it back into the X one side at a time. I lined up the bolt holes and had a friend hammer it up into place until the hole was aligned. He then slide the bolt in and then I used a combination of a hammer and a floor jack to get the other side in. Torque all bolts/nuts (8 in total) down to 74 ft-lb
INSTALLING THE starter
Nothing special here. Just slap it back in and make sure to not over torque the nut on the post. Don’t want to damage the starter.
As far as the rest is concerned just bolt it back together and have fun! If you want to watch the video for this process you can find it below. Thanks for reading!
